By Katie Muirhead

Just as the seasons change, so too does the way we express ourselves. Our hair is a highly personal tool of self-expression, and for many of us changes in our hair are a sacred memento of different life stages.

Just as a breakup can inspire a bold haircut, fresh phases can beckon in bold new hair color choices. Whether you have virgin hair and are looking for a subtle refresh, have new grays that you’d like to address, or are opting for a new, bold look, hair color can be an incredibly self-affirming transformation tool.

When it comes to hair color, it is best to seek the services and expertise of a professional. A color expert will be an agent of change in your life, so it’s worth taking the time to get to know each other and build a trusting relationship. We’ve spoken to hair color expert Juliana Ohlmeyer of BASSIA BASSIA in NYC’s East Village about how to communicate with your colorist and approach a hair change the right way. As Juliana says, “color is a powerful tool, and good color has the power to empower your reality and make you feel unstoppable”.

It’s Time To Talk To Your Colorist

If the pull of a hair makeover has taken over, it’s time to reach out to a pro. An experienced colorist will not only be able to execute your dream hair, but also advise you on techniques, upkeep and budget to keep your hair looking impeccable between appointments. As Juliana points out, “it’s always safer to be in the salon with your colorist. You don’t want to have to go through a color correction, which can be very expensive and time consuming.”

Create Your Color Mood Board

Get ready with Images and references to show your color goal 

Once you’ve found your colorist, it’s time for a consultation. This is when you should whip out the reference pics - you never know, your definition of 'blonde' or “natural” could be different from your colorist’s hair color chart! It can also be worth bringing photos of your own hair from over the years and seasons. “I love to ask for childhood photos or photos from vacation,” says Juliana, “especially if you’re looking for an enhanced version of your natural color”. From here, your colorist can start to make a custom plan.

To master the art and complexity of color, your colorist needs to stay updated on new brands and color types on the market. Not all colors are created equal, either. Certain brand formulations may be better for natural colors, and others for bold pigment such as flamboyant red. Having a wide selection of the professional colors available on the market is a powerful tool to achieve results closest to the hair reference. Juliana says that “I honestly really love Redken shades for glossing and filling for color corrections, Solaris from Eugene Perma for painting, and Wella for beautiful rich brunettes.” Salon-quality hair requires salon-only products, and your colorist will use their expertise to choose the right formulas for you.

Let’s Find The Right Technique

While, of course,  you want your new hair color to look fab fresh out of the salon, an experienced colorist will walk you through the reality of long-term color care. Individual lifestyle factors may be discussed, as well as your availability for upkeep over the coming months.

Different hair color techniques will require more of your time, and it’s important to know in advance what you’re getting yourself into. According to Juliana, these are some common color techniques ranking from low maintenance to high:

Gloss

Glosses are the most gentle way to ease into color, both your hair condition and the extent of regrowth. “I like to explain that a gloss is like one coat of nail polish on your nails,” says Juliana, “or one coat of lipgloss on your lips. It can be clear to add shine to the color underneath, it can be pigmented to add a little tone, or it can be a little bolder to change the color.”

A gloss may be needed as frequently as every 4 weeks, such as for redheads, or you may only need one once a year. It all depends on how often you’re willing to visit the salon and how fresh you like your gloss to look.

Micro Balayage

Micro balayage, or a “mini”,  is a really gentle way of adding texture and dimension to your hair color and to make it appear as if you have been in the sun. Both this and a gloss are color options that you can build on over time and have fun with changing. 

Micro balayage takes about 1.5 hours and can be done every 5-8 weeks. It should be considered a refresh  between a full balayage service every 3-4 months.

Gray High/Low Lighting

If you are starting to see more grays, you may be looking to enhance your natural color without totally covering it. You may opt for a simple gloss which can soften the tones, or you could do a very subtle balayage to add some light, dimension, and softness. 

Clients who are incorporating their natural gray or white may need to visit the salon anywhere from twice a year to every 3 months - it can vary person to person!

Balayage

The full version of the “mini,” balayage can add dimension, brightness or even a full color change to your look.

You can plan to schedule your balayage once a season, but this can vary depending on how fast your hair grows or how much contrast there is with your natural color. No thanks, roots!

Single Process

Whether you’re covering up grays or changing up your hair tone, demi-permanent or permanent color can be used to deposit pigment into the hair creating richness and shine. 

For demi-permanent color, you can expect to visit the salon every 5-12 weeks, and permanent color may be as frequent as every 3-6 weeks. The longer you leave it, the stronger your line of regrowth will be. This process is overall one of the most expensive since it’s so frequent.

 Double Process:

A single or double process bleach and tone is a color service that takes your hair three to six levels lighter or touches up your base with bleach. You have to be consistent, as any excess outgrowth can create patches, bleeding or spot marks when you eventually get it touched up. 

This is also one of the most expensive services as it should be done at least every 5 weeks and requires more time in the salon. A bleach and tone is usually priced between the cost of a single process and a full highlight, depending on your stylist. If you wait longer than 5 weeks between services it may be considered a “virgin double process,” which costs even more for the time it takes to correct.

Changing your hair color can be one of the most satisfying, and ultimately a self-affirming, forms of expression. Whether you’ve been considering a change for months or are feeling a sudden pull, there is something to be said about taking control of your own image and energy. If you’re ready for a new look, it’s time to call your colorist! Make an appointment, prep your reference pictures, and enjoy the confidence that can come from embracing this stage in your life.

Any questions? Connect with an expert

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